A New Beginning in Vietnam
At the age of 36, Markeiz Ryan, an American veteran, was grappling with depression when a friend invited him to visit Hanoi. This trip turned out to be a life-changing experience for him. When he arrived at Noi Bai Airport on his birthday in 2016, things didn’t go as planned. He faced a visa issue that kept him stuck at immigration for 30 minutes, and later, a taxi driver drove off with his phone after he handed it over for directions. Forced to walk for hours, he eventually found someone who let him borrow a phone to contact his friend.
Despite these initial challenges, Ryan’s impression of the city quickly shifted for the better. Within a week, he felt a sense of peace sitting on a plastic stool by the sidewalk, savoring street food and watching motorbikes pass by. “After years of battling depression, I was so happy that I knew I had to live in Vietnam,” he recalls.
From Maryland to the Military
Ryan grew up in Maryland with three siblings. The 2008 financial crisis left his family in debt, forcing him to drop out of college and join the U.S. Air Force at 20. He was stationed in Germany, South Korea, and several African countries for two years each. In 2016, while serving in South Korea, he violated curfew and was demoted from staff sergeant to senior airman. “It was a shock. I broke down after losing everything I had worked for.”
Colleagues began treating him differently, and he lost the respect of soldiers under his command. He fell into depression, sought therapy, and took medication to control self-harming thoughts. A friend suggested he take a trip to Hanoi to unwind. Initially worried about being unwelcome in Vietnam due to lingering postwar resentment or racial prejudice, his fears quickly disappeared. Locals affectionately called him “ong chu socola” (chocolate guy), often inviting him for drinks, karaoke, or meals even on first meetings. “People were warm and generous,” he says.
Embracing Life in Vietnam
After that first visit, Ryan began returning to Vietnam for every holiday, exploring Ho Chi Minh City and Da Nang. The trips helped him imagine life in the country and plan for a relocation. In 2019, he left the military with spinal inflammation, ear pain, and mental health issues. “Many people who leave the military feel lonely and disconnected from society. I tried to avoid that.”
He sold his car and all other belongings, said goodbye to his family, and bought a one-way ticket to HCMC. Ryan was advised to live in Thao Dien Ward, an area popular with foreigners, but he refused because he wanted to mingle with the locals. He rented an apartment on Vo Thi Sau Street, a neighborhood with mostly local residents, to experience daily life in Vietnam.
A Fulfilling Lifestyle
Ryan receives military benefits and also teaches English and does voice-over work to earn around US$4,000 a month. His monthly expenses are only around US$2,000. He finds life in Vietnam relaxing and fulfilling, especially without financial stress. In the U.S., people only have time to grab a quick coffee before heading to work and spend most of their time working to make ends meet. In Vietnam, he sees locals start their workday after gathering for coffee and chatting and take short naps at noon. Young people and even students in HCMC eat at high-end restaurants, which is rare in his country. “Vietnamese people work hard but still enjoy life.”
After six months in HCMC, he didn’t want to leave. He could walk into a bar, make friends within minutes, and be invited to dinner a few hours later. Some of those chance encounters turned into long-term friendships, and the friends helped him learn Vietnamese. He joined sports and cooking groups with locals to stay active and cope with depression. “People here accept differences,” he says.
Making a Difference
A moment that stood out for him was seeing six different nationalities sing the same Vietnamese song on a stage in District 1. A turning point in his recovery came when he visited Thien Phuoc shelter for children affected by Agent Orange in District 12. He played arm wrestling and walked with the children. Their smiles made him realize “the worst day of your life could be the best day of someone else’s.”
Three times a month, he volunteers with Vietnam Hearts, an organization that supports children living in extreme poverty. He helps care for them, talks with them, and teaches them English. “I realized that making others happy also makes me happy,” he says. Viet Nguyen, founder of Vietnam Hearts, notes that Ryan also donates rice and other supplies to help the children.
New Beginnings Every Day
Ryan starts every day in Vietnam with things he looks forward to rather than tasks he must do. He spends time learning Vietnamese and making videos for his YouTube channel, RyanDenVlogs, about life in Vietnam. “I haven’t had a single boring day since I came here.” His journey from struggle to fulfillment highlights the transformative power of new experiences and the importance of community and connection.
