The Global Rise of Gomtang: A Korean Comfort Food Capturing International Palates
Gomtang, the beloved Korean beef bone soup, is making waves across the culinary world. From Michelin-starred chefs to contestants on Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars, and from fine dining establishments abroad to young rising chefs, gomtang is gaining widespread admiration. Even those specializing in French cuisine or vegan dishes are finding ways to incorporate this traditional Korean dish into their menus. Some restaurants have even replaced soju with wine, highlighting how gomtang is evolving beyond its roots while maintaining its cultural essence.
The secret to gomtang lies in time—allowing the flavors to deepen and develop over hours of slow cooking. Chef Yim Jung-sik, who recently opened Gomtang LAB in Sinsa-dong, has embraced this philosophy. With five Michelin stars to his name, including ownership of three-star Michelin Jungsik New York and two-star Michelin Jungsik Seoul, Chef Yim sees gomtang as a symbol of Korean heritage. He draws inspiration from places like Hadongkwan and Mapo-ok, which feel like cultural landmarks. His approach involves refining 10 different cuts of beef to create a balanced and rich flavor profile.
At Gomtang LAB, the signature dish is the collagen-rich beef bone soup, made with beef trotters, oxtail, and bones. The thick, hearty broth clings to the throat as it is sipped, offering a deeply satisfying experience. Limited to just 20 bowls per day, the restaurant has earned the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand award for its exceptional value. Additionally, Gomtang LAB offers wine pairings. Burgundy wine complements the oily richness of the soup, while chilled sparkling wine is a refreshing choice during warmer months.
Near Seoul Station, another gomtang hotspot has emerged: Seoul Station Gomtang. This restaurant, founded by Chef Park Cheol and Chef Hong Chang-beom, who trained in France and the U.K., takes a unique approach by using pork instead of beef. Chef Park explains that his experience with French-style jus helped him perfect the way he cooks meat. The restaurant uses snow crab shells and Japanese halfbeaks, sourced from his father’s fishing business in Uljin, North Gyeongsang, to neutralize the pork aroma. The resulting broth is light yet umami-rich, made with pork shoulder and root vegetables. Due to its high salinity, some customers prefer the unsalted version and adjust the seasoning themselves.
On July 14, Busan’s popular gomtang spot Geodae (Giant) Gomtang expanded to Gangnam Station. Their signature beef bone soup is comparable to the one served at Gomtang LAB, but with a cleaner taste. Meanwhile, the original Seoul branch of Geodae Gomtang is managed by Chef Yoon Kang-san, who studied in the U.K. and China. Previously the head chef at Jamsil’s vegan fine dining restaurant Forest Kitchen, Chef Yoon brings his expertise in selecting quality vegetables to create a complementary ground garlic purée. He also highlights the “Busan-style kimchi made under specific instructions” as a standout element of the dish.
Traditional gomtang spots continue to thrive. Places like Hadongkwan in Jongno and modern favorites such as Okdongsik and Neungdong Minari in Yongsan remain packed with long lines and early “open runs.” As demand grows, new and distinctive gomtang restaurants are emerging. In Seoul’s food street Yongridan-gil, Torom Gomtang recently opened, offering a unique seaweed-based gomtang. Though it resembles traditional seaweed soup, it is actually pork-based and features fresh seaweed from the South Sea. The thinner strips make it easier to eat, and sides like marinated crab soy sauce for dipping meat reflect influences from Southern coastal cuisine.
With its deep-rooted tradition and evolving interpretations, gomtang is proving to be more than just a comfort food—it is becoming a global culinary phenomenon.
